Ingrown hairs occur when hair is unable to grow unhindered along its natural channel through the skin (the hair follicle). This can affect any hair, but is most likely when hair has been cut bluntly by shaving or broken by careless tweezing. Other factors may increase the likelihood of ingrown hairs — even in waxed hair.
Pubic hairs are particularly thick and often curly, which can predispose them to becoming trapped under the skin.
In areas where there is pressure or friction on your skin, it becomes more difficult for hairs to follow their natural path, increasing the risk of becoming stuck. This is most commonly seen in the pubic region where knicker elastic rubs the groin or around the waistband where we all have a little roll of skin.
Dry and dehydrated skin loses elasticity and can obstruct new hair growth, resulting in ingrown hairs. Dead skin fragments can block follicles, making things worse. Very oily skin prone to blackheads can also result in blocked follicles.
Sometimes our skin doesn’t react; other times we experience a full-on inflammatory response. Factors such as hay fever, diet, and the menstrual cycle can all affect skin sensitivity.
At this stage, the hair grows out of the follicle but is stopped from emerging by a fine layer of outer skin. These can often be seen as faint lines beneath the surface, sometimes with a small red dot. Stage one ingrowns are often not inflamed. Gentle exfoliation can remove the outer layer of dead skin and release the trapped hair naturally over time.
If left untreated, the hair continues to grow but curls back into the skin. If caught early while the follicle is still open, Ross may be able to hook the hair out safely using a specialised sterile tool — preventing further skin damage.
This involves increased local blood supply, redness, heat, and scar tissue forming around the area as white blood cells attack. The dead white cells form pus, and eventually an abscess with a head will develop. Once the follicle is walled off, patience is required — the abscess will usually burst naturally, allowing a trained professional to remove the offending hair safely. Avoid squeezing or picking, as this can cause dark scars that take ages to fade.
Waxing is far better than shaving for reducing ingrown hairs. With waxing, the hair is removed from the root, resulting in longer hair-free time. Shaving leaves a blunt, thick edge that struggles to exit the follicle. Waxing also reduces the number of regrowth cycles, meaning fewer opportunities for ingrown hairs overall.
Ingrown hairs are most common where clothing or folds of skin rub. Pressure makes it difficult for hair to grow straight out. Be mindful of tight pants and leggings. Changing underwear style daily prevents repeated friction in the same spot. When practical, going without pants helps too. Loose waistbands and a little talc can also reduce friction and sweating.
Dehydrated skin makes it harder for new hairs to emerge. Stay hydrated by drinking plenty of water, and treat your skin daily with moisturiser or body oil after a shower and before bed.
Exfoliation clears follicles of dead skin and debris while freeing stage-one ingrown hairs. Try exfoliating at least twice a week:
Ross is fully trained and certified by leading industry experts in Waxology, including ‘Wax Daddy’ Andy Rouillard, ‘The Waxing Guru’ Samantha Marshall, and ‘IngrownOut’ Sarah Louisa. He uses only premium equipment and products by Ashmira Botanica, Jack Dunn, and Expert Waxes.
Book in with Ross for individual advice, the best professional products, and safe removal of those pesky ingrown hairs.